Approach

The crags in the Gog and Magog area are some of the most westerly of this on Kowloon Peak. Access to these crags is via the Heavenly Ridge, which is accessed from Jat’s Incline about 100m uphill of the small temple located immediately above the Aria Residential Development (at about +200 mPD elevation). Follow the trail up the Heavenly Ridge to about +420 mPD and level with the top of Magog Crag, from where an overgrown trail leads right and to the top of the crag itself.

Routes

Gog

Magog

1 – Christmas Eve * HVS 5a
A strenuous climb up the overhanging crack on the left side of the buttress. Start at the left side of the wall, beneath the obvious crack.
Pitch 1: Climb the overhanging crack to a small ledge. Continue up the crack above this to a good belay.
Pitch 2. Climb the wall above the belay ledge before continuing up the corner above. Climb the crack and wall on the left above this to the top.
F.F.A. B. Heard, G. Adam (1991)

2 – Switchback * HVS 5c
Start on the right side of the narrow face, a few metres right of Christmas Eve. Layback and jam up the overhanging crack until it is possible to pull on to a sloping ledge. Continue up the slightly easier angled, but still overhanging, crack above to reach a large flat ledge (The Bus Stop) and belay.
F.F.A. M. Lancaster (1991)

3 – Deception * HVS 5a
Start around the corner and down and right of the previous climbs. Climb up the groove, mainly on the right wall, to a small sloping ledge and possible belay. Chimney up the overhang and continue to the top of the Bus Stop to belay.
F.A. D.C Reeve, R. Wallis (1967)

Nick Sullens on Route 4 (I think?). Photo: Jon Butters

4 – ?
Details to follow. This might the classic *** F7a i’ve heard rumours of? Potentially the best F7a in HK according to some…

5 – Frustration S A1
This climb starts at the very right side of the Bus Stop, and well to the right of Deception, in the gully above the corner flake. Scramble a few feet before following the crack using aid. Climb into the chimney and, when about halfway up, move on to the left wall. Mantel to top out on to the Bus Stop.

Overhang Crag

1 – New Year’s Eve * HVDiff
Start at the bottom left of the crag, just above a tree and right of a large boulder.
Pitch 1: Climb the wall and crack to a belay on the boulder above..
Pitch 2. Climb the chimney above and then the boulder above that.

2 – Kilnesy II * A2
Named after a large overhanging crag in Yorkshire, although the only similarity is the amount of aid most mortals would require to climb the roof’s at either crag. Start at the lowest point of the crag.
Pitch 1: Aid through the lower overhang before continuing up the slab above with more ease to a belay beneath the roof.
Pitch 2: Aid through the overhanging crack before continuing up the crack systems above, with a optional belay out right half way up to minimise rope drag.

3 – The Bat * A2
Another aid extravaganza through the overhanging roof crack right of Kilnsey. Start off the right side of the ledge beneath the overhang. Fight (or dangle)your way through this before continuing up and right on to the wall to reach a tree belay at a large ledge.